France’s Senate has overwhelmingly approved a bill designed to regulate low-cost clothing giants, particularly targeting Chinese e-commerce platforms Shein and Temu. The legislation, passed with 337 votes in favor and only one against, introduces advertising restrictions and influencer regulations to address the environmental consequences of fast fashion.

As Euro News reports, the legislation establishes an eco-score system to evaluate the environmental impact of fast fashion products, measuring emissions, resource use, and recyclability. Companies with poor environmental scores face significant financial penalties:

• Taxes of up to €5 per item starting in 2025
• Increasing to €10 per item by 2030
• Capped at 50% of the item’s retail price

This regulation builds on France’s existing influencer marketing law enacted in June 2023, which was modified in November 2024 to align with EU regulations. The influencer law established definitions for “commercial influencer” and set clear rules for content labeling and contractual obligations.

Industry Response

The revised legislation draws a distinction between “ultra” fashion and “classic” fast fashion, applying less stringent restrictions to European companies such as Zara, H&M, and Kiabi. This has drawn criticism from environmental organizations.

“It’s a missed opportunity,” Pierre Condamine from Friends of the Earth France said in a statement. “We’ve got a text that’s going to target two brands and therefore leave out what represents at least 90% of production and clothing sold in France.”

Shein has pushed back against the legislation, with spokesperson Quentin Ruffat warning the bill could “impact the purchasing power” of French consumers. The company also stated, “Shein is not a fast fashion company,” claiming its model is “part of the solution, not the problem.”

The bill now moves to a joint committee of senators and deputies in September. The European Commission must also be notified to ensure compliance with EU regulations. If passed, it would represent one of Europe’s most aggressive legislative efforts to address the environmental toll of fast fashion.